“The Kanga (Leso) has deep cultural, historical and economic significance throughout the Indian Ocean region, and for more than 100 years it has remained one of the most popular of all cultural items across East Africa. […]
The name is said to have originated from the Swahili word for the guinea fowl, which is black with white spots. Kanga za Mera followed soon after that and included block printing of more intricate designs in red and black on Merikani fabric. […]
In the 19th century, in East Africa, certain varieties of cloth were popular. Among them was a cheap, white, unbleached cotton fabric imported from the United States called Merikani, which was worn by women. The other was Kaniki, a name given to cotton cloth from India. The colorful material was quite popular around the middle of the 1800s and, as demand grew, local merchants began to dye Merikani cloth a deep blue or black. The earliest designs were block printed and had repeating black and white spotted motifs, which inspired the name Kanga.
From the early days, Kangas were largely produced in Europe and India. Throughout the 20th century, British, American, Dutch, and Japanese imported cloth continued to dominate the market. But, in the 1970s, textile mills were set up in Kenya and, in 1985, Tanzania became one of the largest producers of the Kanga. Today, Kangas are produced in Kenya, Tanzania, Oman, India and Pakistan. China has recently become the largest producer.
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The Kanga is distinctly recognizable from other African textiles because of its design. Its basic design structure consists of a patterned border (pindo) surrounding a central motif (mji) and Swahili proverb or phrase (jina). The rectangular-shaped printed cloth measures about 150 centimeters in length and 110 centimeters in width. The print patterns of the Kanga are categorized into floral, fauna, and other patterns. Two or more usually vibrant, highly-saturated colors and bold patterns are used.
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There are several ways in which people make use of the Kanga. Women wrap them around their bodies in diverse ways, covering and carrying babies, supporting loads carried on the head or back, and as wall hangings. They are also used to make outfits, head pieces, bags, curtains, table cloths, curtains, seat covers, pillows cases, duvet covers, and many more everyday items.
The Kanga has become a medium of communication, aimed at integration and individualisation. The images and Swahili texts inscribed on the Kanga are used to pass on various messages, including those which are social, political, religious, or health or development related. The first sayings were inscribed in Arabic script, and with time the writing changed to Swahili. Swahili women in particular use them to convey personal messages to their friends, husbands, and families.” -Google Arts & Culture
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